"Surf in winter in Portugal? Isn't the water freezing?" It is. 14°C on the worst days. But anyone who's surfed for more than a season will almost always tell you the same thing: winter is the best season. Here's why.
The sea gets big — seriously
North Atlantic swells reach mainland Portugal with no barrier. Mid-January, Nazaré gets 15m+ waves and North Canyon has world names paddling up walls of water. But you're not going there. You're going to beaches with 1.5m–2m swells, where there's already substance without being dangerous.
The crowds disappear
Spots that had 80 surfers in summer have 5 in January. It's the only time of year you have waves to yourself. Instructors relax, give attention to each student, pick the best spot of the day without competing with 12 schools for the same wave.
The wetsuit isn't a problem
A 4/3mm suit with 3mm boots, and you're fine for 90 minutes in the water. Schools always have suits adapted to the temperature. The cold is mental for the first 60 seconds. After that, you forget.
What changes in lessons
— More sheltered spots — Matosinhos, Costa da Caparica, parts of Ericeira sit out of the wind
— Shorter lessons — 60 to 75 min instead of 90, to avoid prolonged exposure
— Hot drink at the end — almost every school offers tea or coffee on the way back
Who it's for
For those who've already done 3+ lessons in summer and want to progress. For intermediate surfers who want waves without crowds. Not for your first lesson — that one stays for May.
When to go
The golden window is October to December — there's still residual warm water and the swells are starting. January and February are for more advanced surfers. Always confirm conditions on Surf Today before leaving home.